Renaissance Trophy Wife

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Archive for October 12th, 2008

California Love: Sonoma

Posted by RenaissanceTrophyWife on October 12, 2008

Hola!  I’ve been neglecting the staycation posts for a while because there’s really just so.much.good.stuff in the Bay Area to write about, it’s kinda overwhelming.

A couple months ago I wrote a fairly extensive email to an old friend who asked about things to do in Sonoma for her family reunion…  so I figured I’d share with you! I realize this isn’t totally comprehensive (ie no nightlife, casual food reviews) but I’ll cover those in a future post– as well as some cool little gems in Napa, Yountville, and Healdsburg.

If you’re planning a vacation to Sonoma, here are a few recommendations to get you started:

Lodging

Here are a couple places to check out, both easy walking distance from the square.  I would recommend staying slightly off the square, since the hotels directly on the square (the Swiss, girl and the fig, EDK) have restaurants/bars attached to them, and the crowds at night may be a little noisier than expected.

Best Western – Not the most romantic place, but definitely the best location on a budget.  Super close, half a block from the square, easy parking and across the street from Whole Foods.  Check out the TripAdvisor reviews to see if this is for you.

Inn At Sonoma – I’ve stayed in the sister B&B in Santa Cruz; they’re super cute, and this one isn’t far from the square either.  Bonus: they keep free bikes for guests to check out; our friends stayed here and really enjoyed it.

Bike rentals are also available at the Sonoma Cyclery on Broadway (left hand side as you are driving towards the square).

Inn at Sonoma

Inn at Sonoma

Dining

Pretty much everything in Sonoma is on the square (Broadway, the street that you’ll take coming into town, runs right into it).  You can’t go wrong with places there, but just don’t go to Shiso (on Broadway) because their sushi is definitely not very authentic.

For breakfast/lunch spots, anything on the square is good; it just depends on if you want to sit outside or in, take out or sit down.  The Sonoma Cheese Factory (on the N side of the square) has deli sandwiches and a lot of pre-made gourmet salads, cookies, etc. that would be good for a picnic if you do a bike tour.

In the summer, it’s nice enough to eat outside, so I’m going to list places that have outdoor patios (with heat lamps as well) so you have that option.  This far in advance you shouldn’t have a problem getting reservations at any of them.  Prices for entrees at these places are usually in the $15-30 range.

The Swiss Hotel
Italian (slightly lighter, american style), large portions, very friendly service.  They’ve also got a coveted front porch area with small tables that’s a great place to grab a drink and/or some appetizers and people-watch.  Try the glariffee (glazed irish coffee)– it’s an after-dinner drink that’s the secret recipe of some little old lady who makes it for them.

The Swiss Hotel patio

The Swiss Hotel patio

Meritage: Martini oyster bar and grill
My favorite thing here is the lobster salad with avocado and grapefruit, but all the other dishes I’ve had are excellent as well.  When you get a martini, they serve it with its own mini shaker, so it’s probably about a martini and a half.  The chocolate one is really good.  Meritage is not on the square proper, but it’s about half a block from the SW corner.

Meritage oysters!

Meritage oysters!

Harvest Moon Cafe
New american food, very well done.  The interior looks kind of small from the front door, but it opens out onto a huge outdoor space in back that has a fountain and olive trees.

Harvest Moon patio

Harvest Moon patio

Depot Hotel
Classic Italian, great veal appetizer.  They have a good mix of seafood/meat entrees as well; usually the seafood is the special that changes daily.  The outdoor seating here is around a pool, which spreads the diners out a bit, and makes for a nice date night.

Depot Hotel

Depot Hotel

the girl and the fig
French, with a cute bar/lounge area in front that’s very popular.  You’ve got options for the cheese plate if you want to put together your own, or they’ll make one for you.  They serve traditional lighter french fare (croque monsieur, etc) as well as seasonally changing entrees.  With all these great options, though, our absolute favorite outing here is for dessert (yum, profiteroles!) and drinks.  That way, you get to take in the ambiance of the front room without committing to eating a whole meal on the cute tray tables they provide– I can be quite oops-prone when I’m in a cute outfit!

the girl and the fig - yum!

the girl and the fig - yum!

Della Santina‘s
Italian, very authentic.  Their appetizer plates are enormous, so be forewarned.  Pasta is excellent… we also had a completely unique dessert here made out of frozen egg whites and champagne.  The back patio is enormous and has a vine-covered trellis, which really lends a European feel to the whole evening.

Della Santinas

Della Santina's

El Dorado Kitchen
More slick and city-like than the other places; modern furniture, cleaner design, etc.   The jalapeno peach cocktail is good; their desserts are also excellent.  This place is very hyped but service can get spotty; last time we actually left after cocktails since we waited over an hour with more than 6 open tables in sight, and the waitress gave us attitude after we asked nicely about table availability.  That said, we’ve had great meals and friendly service there as well.  Just cover your butt and make a reservation if you don’t want to take chances.

EDK

EDK

Café La Haye
It’s difficult to get in on weekends without reserving quite a bit in advance, since it doesn’t seat very many.  It’s kind of New American with a French twist… gets rave reviews, very unpretentious though and excellent food.  One of my favorite things is the art; they also sponsor a gallery next door to the restaurant.

Cafe La Haye

Cafe La Haye

The Lodge at Sonoma, Carneros Bistro
We went here for the Valentine’s Day tasting menu, which was excellent—haven’t been there for regular dinner since we’re lazy and it’s more of a walk from the square, but the food and service get great reviews.  Bonus: Fri night jazz in the lounge!

Carneros Bistro

Carneros Bistro

Btw, there’s a Whole Foods on 2nd St. west, so if you want to cook or get picnic things while you’re there, that’s a one-stop shop. The Sonoma Market is also very good in terms of produce.

Vineyards

Why else do you go to Wine Country?  For wine, of course!  There are tons of great producers around, and it would take ages for me to list all of them, so check out Chowhound for comprehensive, detailed reviews.

Instead, I’ve focused on are local places that are really easy to get to from the Sonoma square, sans car.  These are all within biking distance (1-2 miles) with only a couple small hills, so the two-wheel tour is a really fun option. Bike rentals are available at the Sonoma Cyclery on Broadway.  (Note to the hardcore oenophiles: you can only put so many bottles in your bike basket, so if you generally buy cases of wine, yes, take the car.)

Gundlach Bundschu – Great tastings in a wine cave; it also has a very picturesque duck pond outside.

Ravenswood - Their motto? “No wimpy wines!” Zinfandel fans, this is your place!!!  2 tasting rooms, 1 for moderate, 1 for higher-priced wines.  They credit your tasting fee towards your wine purchase.

Bartholomew Park – We may not have even been wine-tasting here, but it’s a great place to bike with a picnic lunch.  There’s a huge grassy area on a hill that’s perfect for relaxing and taking it all in.

Buena Vista

Nicholson Ranch

If you venture outside of Sonoma, Glen Ellen is only 10-15 minutes away and the family-run Benziger Winery is organic/biodynamic, has a great tram tour, and has great wines.  They also own Imagery Winery so I think if you go to one you can get a free tasting voucher for the other.

(I’ve heard to avoid sebastiani– it’s crowded, touristy, and you only get 1 pour.)

Massage/Spa

Lodge at Sonoma – Raindance Spa – VERY indulgent, great service.  The Grapeseed Indulgence was amazing, and they do couples’ treatments in a special double room with a fireplace, tub, and private balcony.  BTW, your day pass is free with purchase of a treatment (as opposed to paying for both), so I’d suggest booking your spa appt for the afternoon, and checking in early to indulge for a while. The spa pools are separate from the general hotel pools, and in my opinion much nicer for relaxing. ;-)

MacArthur Place Spa (sl. closer to the square) – Haven’t been here, but it gets great reviews.

Fairmont Mission Inn (about 10-15 min outside town) – Great service here as well.  Love the elixirs and fresh fruit they have available for you when you’re lounging poolside.  Like the Lodge, day pass is free with treatment.  The spa pools are slightly more crowded since they’re available to the general hotel clientele as well, but it doesn’t make a huge difference in the experience, IMHO.

Other things to do:

Definitely catch Tuesday evening farmer’s market on the square (in the spring/summer)– there are playgrounds and a duck pond, so it’s easy to entertain the kids.  There are a bunch of kids (toddlers to high schoolers) as well as parents and older people…  sometimes live music, too.  I think things get started around 5 and go until sunset.  You can drink wine on the square, btw, so if you bring a bottle and grab a picnic, you’re set.

Why not check out a cooking class?  Ramekins is a popular choice.

Visit Jack London’s old house in Glen Ellen, or to get more in touch with nature, go hiking or biking at Annadel State Park or Sugar Loaf.

Most of the charm is just going out and exploring; Sonoma’s very mellow and I think you’ll enjoy discovering the area.

Hope this helps!  Enjoy your vacation :-)

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